Whirlwind Tour
16 Jan 06
My parents have now safely arrived and resumed normal life after spending two weeks with me in Ethiopia. After a brief respite on MLK day they'll have to return to the daily grind. (Actually, mom has to work on MLK day. Sadly my Alma Matter, Southern Nazarene University, continues its RACIST practice of beginning school each spring semester on MLK day. I encourage any current students or faculty to simply boycott class on this day. Don't even hand out syllabii - just don't show up.) I am sad to see them go, but it was wonderful to have them here. The following is loosely revised from my written journal during their trip here.
03 Jan 06
After considerable confusion and discussion, I have rented a Land Cruiser from a man named Bantomlick (Banty). During the process I alternated between being tired and extremely frustrated, or both. The man I originally rented from changed the agreement on the last day and informed me we could not have the car without a driver. I contacted a friend of mine, who assured me he could find someone willing to rent to me without driver. After calling about 30 people, and having two agree and then change their mind within 30 minutes, we ended with no vehicle or driver. I had to pick my parents up at 7pm at the airport, so at 6pm I told my friend to just get me a vehicle, driver or not. Through the confusion of the itinerary, etc, we ended up with a much older Land Cruiser, a cranky driver, and no air conditioning. When the driver picked me up the Land Cruiser had 4 ethiopians already in it, leaving barely enough room for me, let alone my parents. During the drive to the airport there were heated debates between the ethiopians regarding the fact that they had to go to the airport at all. Aparently my contact person didn't work this into the agreement. At several points the driver pulled over and refused to drive at all. I sat through all of this in silence, too tired and sick (I contracted tonselitis during all this) to participate in the fight. When we arrived at the airport I made my only demand - that none of the argument continue in front of my parents. Now my parents have arrived and we are sleeping at the Miller's. Tomorrow we'll drive to Jimma, hopefully with a more workable driver.
08 Jan 06
Driver issues ended up working out. The owner of the Land Cruiser showed up as the driver the next morning, giving us a fresh start. His english is decent, and he has bent over backwords to help us and make our trip go well. I think I still would prefer to not have a driver, but having one has had significant advantages.
Arrived in Lalibela today around 5pm. Staying at the Jerusalem hotel with prices far above normal Ethiopian rates. The view, however, makes the rate well worth it, and the rooms were a nice contrast to the room we had in our overnight stop in Dessie. Mom thinks the room in Dessie is the worst she's ever stayed in. I didn't think it was that bad so if you want details maybe she'll post them in the comments. (I can't get pictures to upload right now, but hopefully in the future you'll see the pictures from our balcony here. In the states I can't imagine how much you'd pay for a room with this view.) The drive was similarly gorgeous, though an air conditioned vehicle would have made a huge difference. The weather was actually rather cool, but to keep the inside from boiling you had to have windows rolled down. The roads are mainly dirt, and given the general lack of rain during this season, produce huge clouds of dust in the wake of passing vehicles. We are all coughing and sneezing from dust and coal fires.
Also during the drive our driver became sick, ostensibly from the yellow pastry/cake he had for breakfast. He stopped several times to, er, return the cake to the world, and ultimately had to ask me to drive. Ironic, eh? Driving was fun, but I admit rather taxing, and I'm glad I don't have to do it eight or ten hours a day. Upon arriving in Lalibela Banty also helped us hire a guide. Aparently this turned out for the best as well, as another couple touring the churches seemed to get rather angry at their guide when they found out how much less we payed ours.
09 Jan 06
Toured the first half of churches this morning. The guide broke the churches into three groups. The first symbolize the earthly Jerusalem, the second Noah's Ark, and the third the heavenly Jerusalem. The first group includes the largest two churches, and are supposedly the most impressive. Because they are protected by UNESCO scaffolding and awning, however, their full grandeur is somewhat lost. As such, I found the second group by far the most impressive.
At the church of St. Michael I received blessing from the priest and kissed the cross of St. Lalibela. I tried to appropriately cross myself afterwords but I'm fairly certain I did it wrong. I think this was the only time I saw a high priest smile. In another church I didn't pull out my camera to take a picture of the cross, and the priest seemed surprised. To oblige him I took a picture, realizing the expectations the priests have. Our guide told us the priests are addicted to pictures. All of the priests wear sunglasses inside the dark churches. I have no idea what the reason is for this but I do enjoy the look it gives them, dressed in traditional Ethiopian Ortodox robes holding 800 year old crosses, wearing modern 5 dollar sunglasses.
To reach the various churches we've had to do quite a bit of walking on old, steep cobblestone paths laid by the Italians. This has slowed my parents down a bit, which is understandable given my new gps shows the elevation to be 7900'. I'm now sitting on the balcony of my hotel room, enjoying one of the most spectacular views I could hope for. Children yell hello to me from the dusty road below. Women are gridning grain and coffee. Eucalyptus trees rustle and bend in the wind. Tomorrow we will move on to Bahir Dar but I could stay here a very long time.
10 Jan 06
Arrived in Bahir Dar around 3pm. staying at the Dib Anbessa, a beautiful hotel overlooking the lake. After lunch yesterday we finished the tour of Lalibela churches by visiting the set symbolizing the heavenly Jerusalem. During this final set of churches we visited "hell", a 75 meter tunnel connecting two of the churchs. No lights, no hand rails, low ceiling. I walked mom through extremely slowly. Aparently there is a network of tunnels connecting the churches, but most are now closed for security and safety reasons.
After arriving at the hotel today we spent a short amount of time walking the streets. We fairly quickly withdrew back to the hotel, as every time we tried to move out we were surrounded by beggars or people trying to sell various things to us. I am more used to this than my parents, but even for me it is extremely tiring and Bahir Dar was worse than normal. Everywhere we go we are seen as sources of money. I have come to terms with being stared at or called to; occassionally a child will grab my hand to walk with me for some distance, content to just be near me. Most of the time, however, I am more likely to be nearly assaulted for money. It isn't as bad in Jimma anymore since people are used to my presence, but in other areas the feeling is intense. Here [in Bahir Dar] it is impossible to walk without a beggar following on one side, a child following behind trying to sell tissue, and a group of young "tour guides" on the other trying to hire out their services. I have been told by others who want to justify this behavior that "this is just a different culture - its acceptable here." Frankly, this isn't true. Begging is excepted, but the constant barrage and solicitation towards foreigners would never be tolerated by a local. Foreigners are targeted because they are greater sources of wealth. This is something I will continue to struggle with; I want to be sensitive to the obvious wealth disparity and find a way to better the plight of others (I did sell everything and move to Ethiopia), but the targeting of white tourists or ex-patriats will do nothing to help the long term economic situation in Ethiopia, and can only harm it.
13 Jan 06
Friday the 13th. Did some shopping with Sheri Miller today and parents picked up their last few souvenier items. Finished the evening by dinner with the Miller's at a restaraunt overlooking Addis, build on the side of Entoto [mountain]. Dropped my parents off at the airport just a bit ago and will sleep following another chapter of Kafka. I'm ready to sleep in my own bed again, but it looks like that's at least a week away still. I have to travel back to Bahir Dar on Wednesday to conduct the Northwest Ethiopia District audit. The following saturday is the District Assembly. Sunday drive back to Addis, Monday jump on a plane for Jimma. Tuesday Fayyaa is conducting a community AIDS Day with an estimated 30,000 in attendance. Wednesday I'll do the Southwest Ethiopia District audit, then drive to Mizan for their District Assembly. Someday it'll slow down...
My parents have now safely arrived and resumed normal life after spending two weeks with me in Ethiopia. After a brief respite on MLK day they'll have to return to the daily grind. (Actually, mom has to work on MLK day. Sadly my Alma Matter, Southern Nazarene University, continues its RACIST practice of beginning school each spring semester on MLK day. I encourage any current students or faculty to simply boycott class on this day. Don't even hand out syllabii - just don't show up.) I am sad to see them go, but it was wonderful to have them here. The following is loosely revised from my written journal during their trip here.
03 Jan 06
After considerable confusion and discussion, I have rented a Land Cruiser from a man named Bantomlick (Banty). During the process I alternated between being tired and extremely frustrated, or both. The man I originally rented from changed the agreement on the last day and informed me we could not have the car without a driver. I contacted a friend of mine, who assured me he could find someone willing to rent to me without driver. After calling about 30 people, and having two agree and then change their mind within 30 minutes, we ended with no vehicle or driver. I had to pick my parents up at 7pm at the airport, so at 6pm I told my friend to just get me a vehicle, driver or not. Through the confusion of the itinerary, etc, we ended up with a much older Land Cruiser, a cranky driver, and no air conditioning. When the driver picked me up the Land Cruiser had 4 ethiopians already in it, leaving barely enough room for me, let alone my parents. During the drive to the airport there were heated debates between the ethiopians regarding the fact that they had to go to the airport at all. Aparently my contact person didn't work this into the agreement. At several points the driver pulled over and refused to drive at all. I sat through all of this in silence, too tired and sick (I contracted tonselitis during all this) to participate in the fight. When we arrived at the airport I made my only demand - that none of the argument continue in front of my parents. Now my parents have arrived and we are sleeping at the Miller's. Tomorrow we'll drive to Jimma, hopefully with a more workable driver.
08 Jan 06
Driver issues ended up working out. The owner of the Land Cruiser showed up as the driver the next morning, giving us a fresh start. His english is decent, and he has bent over backwords to help us and make our trip go well. I think I still would prefer to not have a driver, but having one has had significant advantages.
Arrived in Lalibela today around 5pm. Staying at the Jerusalem hotel with prices far above normal Ethiopian rates. The view, however, makes the rate well worth it, and the rooms were a nice contrast to the room we had in our overnight stop in Dessie. Mom thinks the room in Dessie is the worst she's ever stayed in. I didn't think it was that bad so if you want details maybe she'll post them in the comments. (I can't get pictures to upload right now, but hopefully in the future you'll see the pictures from our balcony here. In the states I can't imagine how much you'd pay for a room with this view.) The drive was similarly gorgeous, though an air conditioned vehicle would have made a huge difference. The weather was actually rather cool, but to keep the inside from boiling you had to have windows rolled down. The roads are mainly dirt, and given the general lack of rain during this season, produce huge clouds of dust in the wake of passing vehicles. We are all coughing and sneezing from dust and coal fires.
Also during the drive our driver became sick, ostensibly from the yellow pastry/cake he had for breakfast. He stopped several times to, er, return the cake to the world, and ultimately had to ask me to drive. Ironic, eh? Driving was fun, but I admit rather taxing, and I'm glad I don't have to do it eight or ten hours a day. Upon arriving in Lalibela Banty also helped us hire a guide. Aparently this turned out for the best as well, as another couple touring the churches seemed to get rather angry at their guide when they found out how much less we payed ours.
09 Jan 06
Toured the first half of churches this morning. The guide broke the churches into three groups. The first symbolize the earthly Jerusalem, the second Noah's Ark, and the third the heavenly Jerusalem. The first group includes the largest two churches, and are supposedly the most impressive. Because they are protected by UNESCO scaffolding and awning, however, their full grandeur is somewhat lost. As such, I found the second group by far the most impressive.
At the church of St. Michael I received blessing from the priest and kissed the cross of St. Lalibela. I tried to appropriately cross myself afterwords but I'm fairly certain I did it wrong. I think this was the only time I saw a high priest smile. In another church I didn't pull out my camera to take a picture of the cross, and the priest seemed surprised. To oblige him I took a picture, realizing the expectations the priests have. Our guide told us the priests are addicted to pictures. All of the priests wear sunglasses inside the dark churches. I have no idea what the reason is for this but I do enjoy the look it gives them, dressed in traditional Ethiopian Ortodox robes holding 800 year old crosses, wearing modern 5 dollar sunglasses.
To reach the various churches we've had to do quite a bit of walking on old, steep cobblestone paths laid by the Italians. This has slowed my parents down a bit, which is understandable given my new gps shows the elevation to be 7900'. I'm now sitting on the balcony of my hotel room, enjoying one of the most spectacular views I could hope for. Children yell hello to me from the dusty road below. Women are gridning grain and coffee. Eucalyptus trees rustle and bend in the wind. Tomorrow we will move on to Bahir Dar but I could stay here a very long time.
10 Jan 06
Arrived in Bahir Dar around 3pm. staying at the Dib Anbessa, a beautiful hotel overlooking the lake. After lunch yesterday we finished the tour of Lalibela churches by visiting the set symbolizing the heavenly Jerusalem. During this final set of churches we visited "hell", a 75 meter tunnel connecting two of the churchs. No lights, no hand rails, low ceiling. I walked mom through extremely slowly. Aparently there is a network of tunnels connecting the churches, but most are now closed for security and safety reasons.
After arriving at the hotel today we spent a short amount of time walking the streets. We fairly quickly withdrew back to the hotel, as every time we tried to move out we were surrounded by beggars or people trying to sell various things to us. I am more used to this than my parents, but even for me it is extremely tiring and Bahir Dar was worse than normal. Everywhere we go we are seen as sources of money. I have come to terms with being stared at or called to; occassionally a child will grab my hand to walk with me for some distance, content to just be near me. Most of the time, however, I am more likely to be nearly assaulted for money. It isn't as bad in Jimma anymore since people are used to my presence, but in other areas the feeling is intense. Here [in Bahir Dar] it is impossible to walk without a beggar following on one side, a child following behind trying to sell tissue, and a group of young "tour guides" on the other trying to hire out their services. I have been told by others who want to justify this behavior that "this is just a different culture - its acceptable here." Frankly, this isn't true. Begging is excepted, but the constant barrage and solicitation towards foreigners would never be tolerated by a local. Foreigners are targeted because they are greater sources of wealth. This is something I will continue to struggle with; I want to be sensitive to the obvious wealth disparity and find a way to better the plight of others (I did sell everything and move to Ethiopia), but the targeting of white tourists or ex-patriats will do nothing to help the long term economic situation in Ethiopia, and can only harm it.
13 Jan 06
Friday the 13th. Did some shopping with Sheri Miller today and parents picked up their last few souvenier items. Finished the evening by dinner with the Miller's at a restaraunt overlooking Addis, build on the side of Entoto [mountain]. Dropped my parents off at the airport just a bit ago and will sleep following another chapter of Kafka. I'm ready to sleep in my own bed again, but it looks like that's at least a week away still. I have to travel back to Bahir Dar on Wednesday to conduct the Northwest Ethiopia District audit. The following saturday is the District Assembly. Sunday drive back to Addis, Monday jump on a plane for Jimma. Tuesday Fayyaa is conducting a community AIDS Day with an estimated 30,000 in attendance. Wednesday I'll do the Southwest Ethiopia District audit, then drive to Mizan for their District Assembly. Someday it'll slow down...
posted by Michael Rodgers at 5:10 AM
2 Comments:
i become more and more jealous each time i read your blog cousin
Land Rovers, resorts, fine dining...what happened to missionaries living in mud huts for Jesus.
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